Winter Dispatch: 035
A Slopeside guide to Jackson Hole, Wyoming.
I ran into my spirit animal at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort last weekend. She’s probably around four years old and I couldn’t catch her name because she was too busy shouting, “Daddy I’ll meet you at the bottom.”
For those also horrified about what’s going on in our country, I wanted to share the 5 Calls app. It provides contact info and ready-made scripts to help you call your representatives about current issues in an informed, effective way. I’ve been making my 5 calls every day and it only takes a few minutes. If phone calls feel intimidating, you can call after hours to leave a voicemail with your name, number, and address – it still counts.
Chairlift Chatter
Kind of obsessed with the triplets on the Jamaican Olympic Ski Team.
The great NYC snowstorm came and went! Shaun White took advantage of the opportunity.
Gen Alpha kids started this treend but it’s very important that adults join in on the fun too.
This is the type of investigative journalism I’m interested in. Aka the optimal way to pee while wearing a ski suit.
A Slopeside Guide to Jackson Hole, Wyoming
On my latest trip to Jackson last week, I found myself wondering about the “Hole” part of Jackson Hole. Turns out the town is named after trapper Davey Jackson, who settled there in the 1820s, and “hole” is old trapper slang for a high-altitude mountain valley. Originally “Jackson’s Hole,” the possessive eventually got dropped. Filing this fun fact away for later.
There’s something magnetic about this place that keeps pulling me back year after year. Maybe it’s the country’s best airport – where you’re greeted by crystal-clear Teton views on landing (bluebird days only) and complimentary mimosas at baggage claim. Or maybe it’s the authentic Mountain West character that actually feels like stepping into cowboy country. World-class skiing, jaw-dropping views, surprisingly excellent dining, and shops that don’t feel like tourist traps certainly don’t hurt either.
There’s a ruggedness here (a wild, untamed quality that refuses to be polished away) that makes it one of my favorite places on earth.
Where To Ski
Jackson is one of the best and most challenging mountains in the world. Here's the thing they don't advertise: a blue run at Jackson is typically a black elsewhere. There's insane expert terrain, but beginners don’t panic! While limited, beginner runs do exist.
Groomers: The groomers on Teton and Après Vous lifts are my favorites, specifically Kemmerer, Wide Open, and Werner. These are rippable, (somewhat) steep groomers that feel long and glorious. Gros Ventre and Sundance also deserve mention for their top-to-bottom nature – perfect for a first run of the morning on fresh corduroy.
Off-Piste: Oh man, where to begin. The terrain off the tram is unmatched. There's a reason for that tram line – Rendezvous Bowl on a powder day is insanely great. Slightly further down are the famous Hobacks (South, Middle, and North) that are also the most fun when the snow cooperates. Sadly the conditions weren't ideal on this recent trip, but this is some of my favorite terrain in the world. Washakie and Grizzly Glades off Teton lift are also wonderful when snow is good. If you're an expert++ skier, there's always the option to brave Corbet's Couloir. But if you’re not feeling it, this season there's a Corbet’s livestream that's endlessly entertaining.
Cody Peak looking stunning as ever | iconic tram underbelly | as seen from the Hobacks Lunch on-mountain: Corbet's Cabin serves the highest waffles in the US at 10,450 feet! The novelty! Rendezvous Lodge and Casper Lodge both have classic ski lodge food (read: overpriced chicken tenders), but Casper has more of a ~vibe~ aka their bar sells jell-o shots.
nutella waffle at 10,450 feet | Corbet's Cabin so cute | jell-o shots @ Casper
Where To Stay
For a group ski trip, Airbnb or VRBO is typically the best option, and that rings true in Jackson. I’m not a gatekeeper, so I’ll share this amazing property management company we used to rent a house – perfect location, beautiful finishes, incredible hot tub. Can’t wait to stay there again. For hotels, The Wort is historic and centrally located. I’ve heard wonderful things about both Rusty Parrot Lodge and Cloudveil. In Teton Village, you’ll find more luxury options like Caldera House (stunning, with amazing food and beverage programs) and Four Seasons – both ski in/out.
The one downside of Jackson: town is ~25 minutes from Teton Village (where the mountain is). I always prefer staying in town to walk to dinner and shops, but that means figuring out mountain transport. The public bus system is reliable if slow (I swear the “express” bus made 7+ stops), but it’s $3, so you can’t complain. Uber is actually quite prominent and while expensive, there are plenty of XL cars that’ll take you and your skis.
Where To Eat, Drink, and Be Merry (mainly in town!)
Coe Tavern: My new favorite spot! Feels like you’re in the coziest cabin, and while the interiors are absolutely charming (sconces, the chicest upholstery, rustic flair), the food and drinks are even better.
Snake River Grill: Rustic + elevated American fare, something for everyone. Also a great spot for dinner at the bar.
Local: Steakhouse with mountain flair. Great steaks + very cold martinis.
Bin22: Wine bar + small plates. Great for a pre-dinner glass and snack or a 1-2 person dinner. Not a group spot.
Glorietta: Solid Italian spot, great for groups. Fabulous cocktails.
Teton Tiger: Asian fusion spot that’s vibe-y and fun for groups. Feels slightly expensive for what it is, but alas.
Jackson Drug: Solid spot for lunch (or dinner), though I prefer their lunch vibe. Good burgers + milkshakes.
D.O.G.: Best breakfast burritos ever. Perfect for a pre-ski brekky. Even a group of Texans were impressed.
Persephone Bakery: The best (and maybe only?) bakery in town. Excellent pastries, but I also love their lunch menu.
The Bunnery: Classic breakfast option, known for their cinnamon buns.
Snake River Brewing: Unrelated to the Grill. Wyoming’s oldest brewery with wonderful beer and excellent food (classic pub fare but better than you’d expect from a brewery).
Million Dollar Cowboy Bar: An iconic establishment. Live country music. Saddle bar seats. Cash-only cover. A must-visit.
Mangy Moose: The après spot at the mountain. Incredibly good vibes, usually with live music. Their seat-yourself policy can lead to frustration – finding a table at peak afternoon hours might be the most challenging part of your trip.
Handle Bar: The bar/restaurant at the Four Seasons at the base of the mountain. Everything costs one million dollars, but the menu is solid and drinks are great. They sometimes have a DJ outside on the patio with firepits. Very pleasant all around!
town square charm | the iconic neon sign | a dollar for every hat spotted at Cowboy Bar | Mangy Moose with the mangy moose
I brought my favorite new Halfdays Hedy Belted Puffer Jacket + Isabel Bib in “Glazed Cherry” on this trip and am slightly obsessed with this color and silhouette. And kept me toasty in subzero temps. Ft. Skida buff + Yardsale poles!
Pocket Pick of the Week
A new section spotlighting the few things actually worth carrying in your jacket with you!
Walkie talkies. Inspired by my friends Jordan + Camille who bring them on every ski trip. Equal parts hilarious and genius when you're trying to meet up with your crew with zero cell service. 10-4s are mandatory, phonetic alphabet strongly encouraged.
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Antler Inn is a really unmatched stay. Fireplaces in the hotel rooms and free shuttles to and from Teton Village and the airport. All while being walking distance to everything in town!
This email made me miss Jackson so much. It’s the first place I’ve ever felt anything like a higher power present. Truly magical and incredible skiing.