Winter Dispatch: 034
Lodge Lizards: ski culture, minus the skis
I’ve been cosplaying an (incredibly amateur) meteorologist here week after week, yet the snowpack outlook continues to look grim. Here in Colorado, we’re tracking toward the lowest snowpack on record since resorts began measuring it in the 1960s. Sigh. I spent MLK weekend in Steamboat (still beautiful, as always) but it was certainly still rock skis territory.
Anyway, please enjoy the video below for a necessary hit of dopamine.
Chairlift Chatter
This is the type of collaboration I’m excited about: Ore Ida potatoes and Fischer Skis.
For those looking for love! Chairlift speed dating is back at Alyeska this Valentine’s Day.
Ski runs are back on Google Maps. After a few years off, the feature returns with fresh satellite imagery, updated trail maps, and real-time lift and lodge layouts at the US’s most popular resorts.
Skincare goes skiing!
Supergoop is the official SPF partner of Alterra Resorts (Ikon Pass destinations) for the next four years. This already has come in handy for me when I forgot pocket sunscreen in Steamboat last weekend and was able to buy a Supergoop mini on the fly yay.
First Aid Beauty is the official skincare of Team USA at the Olympics. I don’t know much about this brand but seems interesting.
Salt & Stone came to Aspen last week for a full on-mountain takeover. I’m most excited by the reusable hand warmers they gave out.
Rhode is popping up at Big Sky in a couple of weeks. Cryptic announcement but very interested to learn more.
And so does Sumo Citrus?! Really just an elite fruit in every dimension. I look forward to Sumo season every year. This activation feels insanely random in the best way.
Ever wonder how a snow cat is assembled?
It’s giving Lady Gaga.
Lodge Lizards: Ski Culture, Minus the Skis
A couple years ago, spinal surgery kept me off skis for the season. At first, I was obviously incredibly bummed – watching everyone else load up for powder days while I was stuck in recovery. Then somewhere around month three, sitting by a fireplace with my second hot chocolate of the day, I realized I was actually having a great time.
That winter turned into something unexpected: mornings reading in quiet corners, long afternoons watching the mountain from warm windows, spa appointments booked without guilt, chitchats with other non-skiers who’d been doing this all along. I’d stumbled into what a lot of people already know but rarely admit – ski towns offer a completely different experience if you’re not spending all day on the mountain.
When Telluride’s ski patrol went on strike recently (they reached an agreement and the resort is back open TG!), a whole cohort got involuntarily initiated into this truth. Suddenly faced with closed lifts and open time, they had to reckon with an essential question: what’s a ski town for when you’re not skiing?
The answer, it turns out, is everything else.
Some of you have always known this. You’ve been booking the trips, enjoying the towns, and politely declining the 8am first-chair peer pressure. You’re not injured or lazy or missing out… you’re just operating on a different frequency. There’s a whole parallel experience happening in these towns that has nothing to do with chairlifts or ability levels.
This is a practical guide for that. Whether you’re injured, uninterested, or simply just prefer being warm, here’s what ski towns offer when you skip the slopes. We call you the Lodge Lizards.
Settle in at the lodge
The art of lodge dwelling is simple: secure a seat near a real fireplace and abandon all timelines. Look for chairs you sink into, menus that invite grazing, and staff who understand that ordering slowly is the point. Read half a book. People watch. Order something small, then something really unnecessary. The best lodges are designed for lingering so use them as intended.
The best spots for Lodge Lizards
A useful secret: you don’t need a room key to enjoy a lovely lodge/lobby lounge that’s likely out of your price range – just good instincts and the confidence to sit down and stay awhile. These places quietly welcome professional lingerers.
River Run Lodge, Sun Valley, Idaho – Cozy and comfortable. Plenty of seating and an easy rendezvous point for skier friends drifting in for lunch. Best for solo readers.
Four Seasons, Jackson Hole, Wyoming – Cowboy luxury. A dramatic fireplace, excellent lobby bar, and Handle Bar next door for food that holds its own. Best for social lingerers.
Stein Eriksen Lodge, Park City, Utah – Norwegian-inspired warmth with a true living-room feel. Ideal for long afternoons that end in the spa. Best for long lunches.
Ritz Carlton Bachelor Gulch, Beaver Creek, Colorado – Grand, old-school alpine drama. Expensive everything (as expected), but the fireplace and scale make it worth settling in. Best for finishing a crossword with a hot beverage.
Madeline Hotel, Telluride, Colorado – Impeccably designed lobby with a bar that encourages staying put. Excellent furniture, excellent lighting, excellent people watching. Best for quiet lounging.
The Little Nell, Aspen, Colorado – The spa situation alone makes it the perfect spot to post up. Outdoor heated pools where you can watch skiers walk by while you’re in 98-degree water. Fantastic dining options. Very luxe. Best for spa-goers (and people watching).
Try low-commitment, high-return winter activities
Snowmobiling
High reward, barely any technique required. You get speed, scenery, and cold air without commitment to real gear.
Tubing
The most underrated winter activity and possibly the most honest. No skill required and maximum chaos guaranteed. Perfect for groups and maintaining an unserious vibe.
Snowshoeing
Slow + scenic. And a surprisingly great workout. Ideal if you want movement without performance.
Cross-country skiing
Quietly harder than downhill skiing, which no one tells you until you’re half a mile in and your thighs are screaming. But the trails are peaceful, the gear is less intimidating, and the pace allows for chitchatting.
Take yourself on a hot chocolate crawl
Order the “house” version everywhere you stop. Extra points for real melted chocolate, house-made marshmallows, the option to spike it, or a view of the mountain while it cools just enough to drink.
Book a spa day
Schedule treatments for when the mountain is busiest. You’ll likely get day access to the pool, hot tub, sauna, etc. A highly enjoyable way to spend the day.
Be the MVP and secure the après table
Every ski group needs this person. This is the Lodge Lizard’s quiet contribution and arguably the most important role of all. Select après highlights linked below.
So if you find yourself in a ski town this winter without skis (or without the desire to use them) consider yourself properly initiated. There’s a quieter version of the season waiting just inside the lodge doors. Grab a seat. Order slowly. Stay awhile!!!
Pocket Pick of the Week
A new section spotlighting the few things actually worth carrying in your jacket with you!
Chocolate Liqueurs (aka adult magic pocket). Incredibly delightful around 2pm. A real crowd-pleaser.
If you enjoy this letter, please share with friends! Feel free to respond here with ski-related intel, new products you’re loving, or just to say hi. Thanks for reading 💌
Post-skiing citrus makes me believe in modernity (at least a tiny little bit)!
Love this perspective on ski culture without skiing! I actualy spent a season recovering from an injury and discovered exactly this, the lodge scene can be just as rewarding. Your list of lodges is perfec especially Bachelor Gulch, that fireplace is unmatched. Makes me want to plan a trip specifically as a lodge lizard lol.