Winter Dispatch: 015
A guide to Park City, Utah, ski hair, ~hot~ laps, 1 lb backpacks, and boot charms.
Good morning and happy Friday!! Just got back from Winter Park, where it dumped five feet in the last week – it was magical. The snow then followed us back to Denver and just woke up to 6” on the patio!!!
To mix things up while in Winter Park, we did a morning snowmobile ride one day, and it was an absolute blast. Most of my snowmobile experience has been in Alaska, where they’re called snow machines (intimidating) and used primarily as a tool or mode of transportation. Very fun to experience one purely as a toy for a change. And of course, ended the trip with a stop at Waffle Cabin. Idk what they put in those things but they are addicting.
Chairlift Chatter
Helly Hansen was acquired by Kontoor Brands, owner of Wrangler and Lee. Given Kontoor’s focus on denim, this is a new lane for them – curious to see how it plays out.
Douchebags (now just Db) just dropped their Weigh Lighter collection, featuring an insanely lightweight composite fabric. The mountaineering pack below weighs just over 1 lb… this brand continues to impress.
Mt. Etna in Sicily is erupting and people are taking ~hot~ laps. Looks sick but do not recommend.
Seattle-based GNU Snowboards says meat is in with their new GNU Wagyu board.
This New Yorker piece on Wilson "Snowflake” Bentley is a must-read. Loved it.
Charms have officially made their way to ski boots. Very into this.
A Slopeside Guide to Park City, Utah
This particular guide is a big reason why I started the newsletter in the first place. Growing up in Park City, I’ve had countless friends ask for my recs, but the hard part is: the town is changing faster than I can keep up. When my parents moved here, it was definitely no longer the sleepy mining town it once was, but it still had just 6,700 people (now over 9,000), and the vibes were completely different. Every store on Main Street was local (or at least Mountain West local), and while the Sundance Film Festival always brought the stars, Park City wasn’t nearly as ritzy as it is now. That said, it’s still my favorite place in the world, and I’ve been most excited to share my version of Park City with you. Some of these recs are rooted in nostalgia, others are newer, so hopefully, there’s something for everyone.
Where To Ski
Park City is home to two incredible resorts: Park City Mountain Resort and Deer Valley.
Park City Mountain Resort (PCMR) is the largest resort in the US, thanks to the 2015 merger of Park City and Canyons (formerly two separate entities). Now, you need at least a full week to ski everything PCMR has to offer. The terrain is incredible, with something for beginners to the most expert skiers.
Groomers: The groomers off Silverlode, King Con, and Saddleback lifts are always a delight. I also love skiing all the way into town via Creole for a scenic, leisurely route.
Off-Piste: The terrain off Jupiter Lift is my favorite part of the mountain. If you’re lucky enough to hit Park City on a powder day, head to Jupiter first thing in the morning and lap it as long as you can! There’s also great terrain off McConkey’s and the infamous Ninety-Nine 90.
Lunch on Mountain: For a Vail Resorts-owned mountain, PCMR still has some decent on-mountain food. Mid Mountain Lodge is solid (randomly had a great grain bowl there), and it’s usually less crowded than the base lodges. On the Canyons side, Tombstone BBQ is always a win, though it gets packed. But my real recommendation – one you won’t find on most guides – is Davanza’s Pizza. Their $5 lunch special (a slice of pizza, crinkle fries, and a drink with fry sauce included) is unbeatable. Just ski down under Town Lift, walk across the street, and you’re there.
Deer Valley gets a bad rap for being a beginner’s mountain. To those people, I say: you just don’t know where to look. Some of my favorite terrain is at Deer Valley – you just have to find it. (Also, if you didn’t know, they don’t allow snowboarders.)
Groomers: Deer Valley is famous for its pristine corduroy groomers, winning awards every year for its grooming techniques. I adore a long, steep groomer and Deer Valley has LOTS. My favorites are off Bald Mountain – especially Sultan, Wasatch, and Sterling lifts. Stein’s Way and Wizard are two of my all-time fav runs.
Off-Piste: Empire is the best of the best, especially on a powder day. Empire Bowl under the lift line is a blast, and if you’re feeling extra spicy, a short ski through the trees and hike to the top gets you to Daly Chutes and X-Files – worth lapping all day.
Lunch on Mountain: Deer Valley’s on-mountain dining could be its own separate post. If you haven’t heard, DV takes food very seriously. There’s a raw bar. A seafood buffet. A carving station. And, of course, the famous Deer Valley turkey chili, which you cannot skip (they sell the seasoning mix, but it never hits the same at home). The carrot cake is legendary, and the double chocolate cookie with white chocolate chips (mentioned in last week’s newsletter) is also a fav. If you’re the type to ski through lunch or bring a pocket PB&J (I respect it), Deer Valley is one place where you might want to reconsider.
Where To Stay
This is tricky – Park City has gotten outrageously expensive. If budget isn’t a concern (love that for you), stay at Goldener Hirsch or Stein Eriksen Lodge, both in Deer Valley. For a more budget friendly option, I’ve heard great things about Newpark Resort in Kimball Junction (15 min drive) to Main Street. There are tons of great Airbnb options too.
Where To Eat, Drink, and Be Merry
Riverhorse: One of the best restaurants in Park City. Fine dining and the most elevated in town. Book well in advance.
Firewood: Another best restaurant contender. People have mixed reviews for some reason but every time I’ve been, it’s been incredible.
Chimayo: Southwestern cuisine with great margaritas.
Five Seeds: Australian cafe with solid breakfast/brunch.
Windy Ridge Cafe: Casual lunch spot with great salads and sandwiches. Stop at the bakery in the back for amazing desserts.
Boneyard Saloon: Casual American menu that is consistent and overall good vibes.
Twisted Fern: Great casual-but-elevated dinner spot with excellent cocktails.
Java Cow: Used to be called Cow’s but we’ll accept the rebrand. Is it the best ice cream you’ll ever have? No. But it gets the job done and they play ski films. Good vibes.
Fireside Dining: At night, Deer Valley’s Empire Lodge transforms into an Alps-inspired buffet, with raclette as the showstopper. Sounds gimmicky, but it’s actually so fun and the food is great. You can take a sleigh up or drive.
High West Distillery: The only ski in/ski out distillery in the world! A Park City classic, known for whiskey but with a great food menu too. If you have time, High West’s actual distillery and tasting room is in Wanship, Utah – a 25 minute drive from Park City. It’s beautiful out there and a delightful experience.
Umbrella Bar: Bar located in Canyons Village that’s great for a casual après beer with live music occasionally.
St. Regis Deer Valley/Vintage Room: Either ski to the St. Regis or take the funicular up for après or cocktails outside. The “Vintage Room” is a glass tent with a DJ and bottle service on the hotel patio (I hate to admit it, but it’s a blast). If that’s not your vibe, grab a bevvy and enjoy the view – it’s lovely year-round.
Cafe Rio: Utah’s beloved fast-casual version of Chipotle. My Utah friends will laugh at me for including this, but it is good.
No Name Saloon: Best bar in town on Main Street. A Park City classic. These days, there’s usually a line and cover charge at night (tragic), but it’s fun during the day too. Great burgers.
The Spur: Another Main Street go-to, usually with live music.
Chute Eleven: A new offering from Deer Valley this season. I haven’t been yet, but it seems like a Cloud Nine knockoff – minus the champagne spraying.
Other Fun Things
Aside from skiing, there are lots of fun activities in town even in the winter. I could also do a whole summer/non-winter activities guide but will save that for another time. Here are few recos if you want a break from skiing:
Main Street: Goes without saying, but definitely take a stroll up and down Main Street. While it’s gotten a bit more big-box over the years, there are still some great spots. My favorites: Park City Mercantile, Cake, Gorsuch, and Prospect.
Utah Olympic Park: Built for the 2002 Salt Lake Olympics, UOP is still an active training ground for Olympic athletes. There’s a bobsled track, Nordic ski jumps, and various other training facilities. In the summer, athletes practice aerial tricks by launching into a massive pool with bubbles/jets to cushion their landings – it’s so fun to watch. In the winter, you can actually ride in a bobsled yourself or tour the Olympic museum. Definitely worth a stop if you have time.
Woodward: A tubing hill that’s surprisingly fun. If you’re a park rat (or with park rat friends), they’ve also got a variety of terrain parks.
McPolin Barn Walk: When you drive into town, you’ll see a stunning white barn on the right side of the “highway.” That’s the McPolin Barn, a Park City landmark. The surrounding trail is beautiful year-round but feels extra magical in the winter.
Let’s Talk Ski Hair
One thing I definitely did not win in the genetic lottery is a thick, horse-like mane. My hair is long but thin, which means that by the end of a ski day, I’ve got a rat’s nest big enough for Ratatouille to move in. I’ve tried everything, and what’s working for now is a secured ponytail with a braid, tied off with a small clear elastic. This sort of prevents a full-on disaster, but on storm days all bets are off. I guess the more tangled my hair is, the better the skiing was.
I know some runners swear by a full hair mask before a run to prevent tangling – what are long-haired skiers doing these days? Drop tips in the comments!
If you enjoy this letter, please share with friends! Feel free to respond here with ski-related intel, new products you’re loving, or just to say hi. Thanks for reading 💌
Raclette forever!!
Jupiter lift 😍 miss it